A day out on Gog and Magog mountain

A visit to Jos is certainly not complete without the rather strenuous rock climbing to the peak of Shere hills. The twin peaks popularly known as Gog and Magog are a tourist delight any day especially to the stout hearted and to the adventure freaks. But perhaps those with heart conditions should not dream of […]

A day out on Gog and Magog mountain
A day out on Gog and Magog mountain

A visit to Jos is certainly not complete without the rather strenuous rock climbing to the peak of Shere hills. The twin peaks popularly known as Gog and Magog are a tourist delight any day especially to the stout hearted and to the adventure freaks. But perhaps those with heart conditions should not dream of accessing the heights of these imposing mountains which researchers put over roughly 5500 feet above land. The craggy rocks and innumerable caves which like acne dot the surface and the top of the numerous mountain ranges are also indomitable challenges along the way. But the indescribable joy found atop the gigantic Gog and its twin, Magog eventually bring smiles to the faces of the conquerors and joy to the fluttering hearts.

A chilly start: On this misty morning we are about 40 persons (excluding the instructors who are about 6) who have gathered to find their way into the massive canyon which hosts the Shere hills. Age and sex are not determinants in this mixed multitude as both are adequately represented. The youthful as well as the elderly are fully kitted for the onslaught on the mountain ranges and morale is rather high. The group taking the trip into the foreboding hills are middle and senior management staff of Danbo International Schools Kaduna and they have been in the Shere Hills Mountain Schools for about three days undergoing highly intensive physical and mental training exercises targeted at enhancing their human capacity. The journey into the innards of the mountains is meant to be the crowning part of their experiences at the mountain school. For them, this is a task that must be undertaken in order to fully qualify them as alumni of the prestigious school. It is however not a task for the fainthearted. The extremely cold weather is not helping matters as a few can be seen clasping thick cardigans and head mufflers to keep out the chilly fingers of the Jos climate.

An instructor, Fatai Adekunle enjoins the participants to be prepared for the challenges on the way. The fixed and stern stare on his face further depicts the seriousness of the forthcoming challenge. ‘The task ahead of us is not for the fainthearted. It is essentially meant to complement all we have taught you in the past few days especially to further strengthen the bonds of unity, leadership, endurance and sacrifice that we have been preaching over the last two days. The mountain is the final challenge you must overcome in your search for fulfilment at the camp. Today we would not be doing mountain abseiling as this is more complicated. What we will simply do is mountain climbing using the numerous pathways and caves to access the top. Know that as you go you are part of a team and that you are responsible for the next person behind and before you.’

After the charge the group is broken into two lines. Each line is further structured in such a way that a female comes after a male. No two males are seen next to each other with the same scenario going for the females. An instructor explains the rationale behind the formation. ‘Naturally we all know that the man is stronger in physique and mindset than the woman at least in most cases. It is much better to put a man beside a woman so that when we get to the crisis points and the woman begins to fret, the man can assist and equally help in putting the woman’s mind at rest. Rest assured that we will get to such crisis points very soon…’

A sonorous foray into the heart of the canyon: Adekunle says that from previous excursions into the heart of the mountain range, seven crisis points had been identified by the instructors in the arduous trip and these points always have a trained instructor to man the vicinity even before the trainees get there. ‘Our instructors are well trained. They have been into the hills many times over so they know the mountains like the back of their hands. When we take people there they always go ahead to wait for the trainees so that they can assist them when they get there. In some places as you climb the mountain, you will have to crawl, other places, you slide down, in others, you climb, or clamber. In some places you have to go through caves, while in others, you will be propelled through slim slits by the instructors. There are many obstacles to the peak of Gog and Magog but the instructors are always there to assist. In some places however the instructors would sit back and allow the trainees assist one another. By this way we want to them to imbibe the spirit of oneness and unity in which the strong will always be willing to assist the weak. Under no circumstances are we to abandon anyone. That is the whole essence of the challenge.’

The next 30 minute-march to the base of the gargantuan mountain is filled with energetic and ear piercing chants and songs by the group as they make their way into the deep canyon which hosts a huge mass of rocky formations in beautifully crafted natural formations.  We all clamber over these innumerable mass of small and massive rocks and grassy plane. The group nearly scatters at a point when a bare-chested male with shaved pate and painted facade rushes past us. But one of the guides instantly puts our mind at rest that we were not about to be assaulted by cannibals. He assures us that the fiery looking character was part of a cast which was shooting a film in the undulating hills of Shere. ‘Many films have been shot in these hills. The mountains offer an unbeatable scenic platform for many film producers. There is hardly any weekend that you do not see them coming to rehearse or shoot films in these hills…’

Our jaunty march and hearty songs soon come to an abrupt end when we reach the massive base of the hills after a strenuous march through its craggy front. Many express instant fear when they look up at the dizzying heights of the mountain tops and especially when one of the more witty instructors, Alex Akinnusi declares that the ‘journey is about to begin.’

A harrowing navigation through an unending labyrinth: The next three hours could as well be an extract taken from an adventure novel. Getting to the top of the Gog and Magog Mountains in Shere hills is a comprehensive exercise in endurance, patience, mutual human aid, leadership, brawn, intellect, empathy, zeal, strength of will to mention a few of the attributes needed to access the base. The instructors’ constant appearance at different points prevented many from falling off the rough surfaces of the mountain.

A fall off the sides at any point by the base is descent into certain death or permanent disability. This perhaps strengthened the resolve of many not to take the plunge for whatever reason. The collective resolve however had to be further buoyed at different points by the guides.

Accessing the beckoning tips of Gog and Magog requires every ounce of strength and flexibility. At different points, one would have to crawl, bend or climb seemingly insurmountable rocky extensions. At a particular point, one had to rely on ones buttocks to navigate a bend. In another memorable point, the tourists had to lie on their bellies like serpents and crawl through cracks in the rocks. At a cleft, an instructor nearly lost his voice when he urged the group not to lean to their left for whatever reason as doing so would lead the person to descend into a slit which was populated by large pythons and serpents.

Many gladly heeded his advice. In some highly charged situations, many had to be forcefully pulled from rocks by the ubiquitous instructors when their strength failed them. It was a case of going forward no matter what the situation was for many. Perhaps without the constant urging of the instructors and their yelling at times, many would have stayed put at particular points and refused to move further.

Suddenly after about 10 minutes of navigating an endless tunnel which projects from a cave-like extension, the fatigued members of the group suddenly burst into dizzying sunlight. At last the summit of Gog and Magog is beneath our feet.

Gog and Magog: Online records describe the Shere Hills as ‘a range of undulating hills and rock formations on the Plateau, situated about 10 kilometres to the east of Jos metropolis, the capital of Plateau State in the middle belt region of Nigeria. The Shere Hills have numerous high peaks, with the highest peak reaching a height of about 1,829 metres/6,001 feet above sea level, the Shere Hills are the highest point of the Jos Plateau and they form the third highest point in Nigeria after Chappal Waddi on the Mambilla Plateau averaging about 2,419 metres/7,936 feet above sea level and Mount Dimlang (Vogel peak) on the Shebshi Mountains reaching a height of about 2,042 metres/6,699 feet above sea level.’ It also adds: ‘this is one of Plateau’s highest peaks and most rugged, and offers unrivalled opportunities to the mountain climbers and lovers of adventure. It is about 10 kilometres to the East of Jos. The Hills serve as a camping spot to the Citizenship and Leadership Training centre.’ But perhaps one of the points of attraction on this mammoth mountain range is the twin tops of Gog and Magog which attracts tourists year in year out.

Musa Itse, a guide and indigene of the town gives us a brief summary of the story behind the hills. According to him, the hills served as fortresses in the past for the tribal warlords and their families during the inter-tribal wars in ancient times. ‘The hills serve historical, sociological and philosophical ediffices for indigenes here. But most importantly the mountain was used for refuge during times of war in the past. Then the warriors would hide their families, children, weaker adults, women and elderly in the hills. Then they would go down to meet their adversaries. It also served as a veritable battle point for them used for reconnoitring and assault on the attacking forces of their enemies. The hills could not be penetrated by successive enemy armies as only the natives know the different parts of the mountain that were safe. A stranger would only get lost without adequate guidance by a native of the area. So it is today.’

He adds that today that the mountain still retains its glorious aura. ‘The Gog and the Magog are just the tips of the array of the mountains. They are the only formidable points one can easily remember. They are like the beginning and the end of the mountain range and serve as demarcating points for reference. The mountain is cherished by the native. That is why we do not allow anyone to mess with the mountains. We don’t mind visitors visiting and accessing its heights but we are not always happy whenever people misuse it. In fact we kick against such. The mountains represent our heritage and a glorious past…’

Senior instructor of CLTC, Alex Akninnusi has this to say about the hills: ‘it is one of the vastly untapped natural resources in the country. As an instrutor I have had the privilege of being atop it many times. It is always worth the challenges you face on the way to the top. And the journey to the top to us as instructors is always a demonstration of life’s challenges as a whole: the obstacles humans face as a team at times and how they are able to surmount these challenges. We instructors would give our lives to preserve those we take to the top of the mountain. But it gives us greater joy to see our trainees learn the lessons held by the mountain themselves…’

He however urges the government to prevent damage being done to the mountains by some companies who for commercial purposes come to blast the rocks which can be found in abundance at the base of the mountain.

What tourists have to say?: Adesope Grace, an elderly caterer, says the experience garnered from climbing the mountain will remain indelible for her. ‘All my children have at one time or the other climbed the mountain and I vowed to do so. I am happy that I have achieved my aim today. I will never forget today’s experience.’

Nyam Joyce, deputy head teacher, Danbo says same: ‘climbing the mountain depicts the journey of life. You will always need help at one point or the other in life. Do not be hesitate to depend on such assistance. We helped one another to get to the top of the mountain today. And the greatest lesson I learned going atop the mountain was, ‘never ever give up in life or on anyone.’

A tourist, Daniel Ojadua perhaps best captures the glittering splendour these hills possess and which have tourist potentials. ‘The contrast is vast from the several rolling hills, rock formations, to dozens of mountains and all the reserves in between. Each trail has its own wonderful wildlife, bird life and heritage, plant life as well as fascinating geographical contrasts. There is no better way to experience wild and interesting places than to put your boots on and your feet on the ground with specially trained guide,’ he enthuses.

The coordinator of the CLTC, Dr Waheed Adedeji has this to say of the symbiotic relationship the hills have with the school: ‘The Centre is an informal education institution. It uses the challenges found in the environment especially the Shere mountain ranges to confront participants for the purpose of developing the core values of courage, trust, integrity, and compassion for others,’

An unnamed blogger infers: “One cannot but be amazed at the scenic heap of massive boulders climbing up to a height of about 5,829 meters above sea level- Gog and Maggog, the highest points on Shere Hills. These highest points have constituted great challenges to visitors who have flair for mounting climbing. The hills hosted the First All African Scouts Jamboree in 1976. These and many more are the great sights locked away in the (former) war-torn land of Jos. We believe and know that someday soon, the Plateau shall regain her lost dignity peace and glory in the tourism sector of our beloved country. With only three hours drive from Abuja, one hour flight from Lagos, you will change your perspective. Altitude, cool weather, beautiful landscape, nice people.