It was not until the passport was brought to the very restaurant where we were eating that I saw the officials heaved a sigh of relief. The reason for my peculiar predicament was not far fetched. It was that very day of our journey that I submitted my brand new passport for processing because I was not based in Lagos and the facilitators of the trip could not reach me on time for the necessary documentation. But all that could not dampen the enthusiasm of the facility trip to Peshawar Pakistan’s last frontier to Afghanistan. Peshawar, a war- ravaged city whose surname is war itself, even phonemically is the destination of our four-member delegation for a critical assignment on the Afghanistan conflict.

Dateline: Peshawa (Northern Pakistan) June 1988

In Pakistan before and now, the transistor battery remains an enemy. So, a visitor from Lagos, Nigeria, who previously had no problem whatsoever on his SWISSAIR flight 265 to Zurich, Switzerland and from Zurich to Karachi, suddenly finds himself in the middle of a curious dilemma. His camera, a key tool of his trade as a journalist, is on the verge of being a liability. As he made to board a local Pakistan International airline (PIA) flight from Karachi to Peshawa, he was accosted by security men who seized his camera at the last checkpoint just before boarding the flight.

Shocked, I sought to know why. But the security men were themselves surprised that I did not know why they chose to seize my camera. Sensing, perhaps, that I genuinely did not understand, he smiled at me and removed the two slim ‘AA’ batteries and then, in an act of ‘magnanimity’ returned my camera to me. It was the first indication that the two and a half hour flight to Peshawa will take one to a zone of war and bloodshed. A zone of amputation, amputees and human disfigurement. A zone of refugees and fiery-eyed teenage and youthful rebels. A zone of bomb ravaged mansions and bungalows. A zone of self-immolation in the name of Jihadism. A zone of virtual lawlessness…Welcome to Peshawa of 1988 – the war – ravaged border town with an estimated 1.3 milion refugees who were displaced from the civil war in nearby Afghanistan (Pronounced: …Avanistan”).

Peshawa is virtually a No-man’s land. With just about fifteen minutes drive before you enter into a bloody battlefield of treacherous terrain in nearby Afghanistan – with deadly serenity of mountains and valleys behind which laid the monstrous war machine of the deadly Soviet-backed occupation force of terrain – President Najibullah, installed in the military blitz that was the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1980.

That invasion and the subsequent military resistance to it, personified by the alliance of Afghan Mujahiddeens, was the subject of my visitation along with three other journalists from my country, Nigeria. They are Mr Atilade Atoyebi, now Executive Director (FRCN), Anietie Usen, now General Manager, Public Affairs of the Niger Delta Development Commission (NDDC), as well as Phil Ayinla, then of the News Agency of Nigeria (NAN) whose last known (to this reporter) executive responsibility was a Senior Editor with The Champion newspaper in Lagos.

As the PIA aircraft bumped into the runway of Peshawa airport, the implication of its defacto state of siege became manifest – troops armed with machine guns patrolled the tarmac. Most of the uniformed anti-terrorist troops spotted the famous Alibaba type of moustache.

We landed shortly before 2pm. Pakistan is about five hours ahead of Nigerian time. Seeing the troops on the tarmac is quite a unique phenomenon for a visitor in a “peaceful” zone like Lagos. As you disembark from the bowel of the aircraft into the shuttle buses, you are immediately conscious of what you consider to be rather bateful starring of the airport commandos as they gazed ceaselessly at you – with suspicion because four of the passengers are indeed black. An unusual sight in this far-flung place which shares border with China, Iran and, of course, Afghanistan.

The time of our visitation was certainly not the best time. It was a time of war in the place fondly and popularly called North-West Frontier Province (NWFP).

Our trip which was at the invitation of the Peshawa-based Afghanistan Media Resource Centre (AMRC) was to expose the journalists to the activities of the Mujahidden fighters alias Afghan rebels. And these are indeed no ordinary rebels based in the besieged but heavily secured border town. Take note that Afghan rebels were indeed no ordinary rebels. They are rebels heavily funded, trained and mobilized by the United States Government.

Actually, it was the United States Information Service (USIS) in Lagos which facilitated our trip on behalf of the AMRC with active backing of the Pakistani government whose High Commission in Nigeria gave us gratis-visa for the 10-day assignment. Evidence of American involvement was also prevalent at Karachi airport with many nocturnal flights by wide-bodied cargo transport planes ferrying arms to the Afghan guerrillas through the airports for onward transfer to the guerrillas in the frontline up north.

The American involvement had become inevitable right from the onset when Najibullah became the Communist Head of State after the Soviet armour overran Kabul, the capital…

That invasion means a total upset for the balance of power in South Asia. It means with the then Soviet Union controlling China and with Iran as hotbed of Islamic anti-Americanism, it was easy to see why the United States rose, as a matter of urgency, to check communist expansion in an era that was the peak of the Cold War…

…TRAILING OSAMA

Peshawa was not only a home to over one million Afghan refugees, it was also the operational base of at least seven different Mujahiddeen fighter groups arraigned against the Najibullah government. These groups operate from Peshawa where they trained the young guerrillas, equip and prepare them for-wait for it-martydom! Inside Afghanistan, these various rebel groups with overt and covert ‘technical’ assistance from the US, sent deadly military contingents to attack Afghan military targets and government machineries from Kandahar to Kabul. These military expeditions also executed many lethal ambushes on Najibullah government military camps and supply chains, leading eventually to the historic withdrawal of Soviet troops from Afghanistan. A war fought at the multi-sectoral level by the American government through diplomacy, sports and consular boycotts (remember the ill-fated Moscow Olympics).

Now, the seven-party (politico-military association really) alliance in Peshawa were operating locally and were led especially by heavily bearded militant Islamic Mullahs. The journalist delegation from Nigeria, including yours sincerely, was invited to see these ‘mullah’ and speak to them on what they were doing militarily and politically to dethrone and expel those they call the Soviet infidels whom they accused of polluting their temple of Islam. In fact, the sing song on the lips of those young militants we interviewed was “jihad” and “freedom” – the fact that they were freedom fighters to liberate their Islamic nation from the regimental dictatorship from Moscow and their local fiefs inside Kabul. One of those “Mullahs” particularly celebrated for their irrevocable and single-minded doggedness in the pursuit of that aim was the leader”; Al Qaeda recently killed Osama Bin Laden. We took turns, based on our carefully itemized itinerary, to visit the operational headquarters of each of these parties in the seven party alliances. Their headquarters was usually ensconced in some innocent looking civil quarters, but deep in their bunks are youthful guerillas with their flowing gowns, baggy trousers and elaborate beret caps steaming in and out. They are soldiers of war. At the time of our visit, little was indeed known of Osama outside Saudi Arabia, Afghanistan and Peshawa. Still in Peshawa, young guerillas mention his name with considerable reverence. Most called him simply Osama. He was the archetypal hero in the vanguard of martyrdom if necessary to “liberate” Afghanistan. In this crusade, Osama found a willing ally in the US or in fact, the US found a willing ally in Osama, depending on your point of view. This was, indeed the al-Qaeda movement. Osama was waxing strong with U.S. support. The rest of the world was asleep. When the day broke for the rest of us 20 years later, the world was no longer the same.
Al-Qaeda has emerged as a new “super power” without frontiers with an arch enemy in view; America.
Even though OSAMA was not yet a household name all over the world the time of our visit, seeing him was not a cup of tea either being on the most wanted hit-list of the Kabul government.
Although Peshawa is a Pakistan town and a provincial headquarter for that matter, the Afghan population had for all practical considerations overran the territory such that a novice may indeed believe the territory was a part and parcel of Afghanistan. It was not. But such was the force of the Afghan refugee population that the United States Consulate in Peshawa had a fully functional Afghan interest section manned by representatives of the seven party rebels based in that area. Peshawa for all practical considerations, was the seat of the Afghan government in exile – an Islamic government that is anti-government was a fore runner to the discredited Taliban successor.
The “Consulate” where we were also hosted for part of the briefing provided the forum for the Afghan rebels to liaise with their financiers and other supporters around the world for the much needed cash, armaments and diplomatic support in the struggle to overthrow communist Najibullah. Among the partners in the alliance, Osama stood out for his martyrdom credentials. He was revered and almost deified. So, on this day when we were supposed to visit his home in Peshawa, our Afghan guides were quite excited, an excitement we did not share because, at that time, few people knew Osama bin Laden. There was no 9/11 or US’ military base bombing in Kenya and Tanzania…so meeting Osama was not quite spectacular you would say.
But then, those extraordinary exploits of his guerilla outfits in insurgency operations inside Afghanistan were quite sensational in all respects. In fact, out of the many deadly guerilla networks in Afghanistan, only those of Gubden Maktyr and the then legendary commander Jalloud, could match the effectiveness of his men on the frontline.
Gubden Maktyr was another deadly guerilla leader who was “celebrated” more for the ruthlessness even against his own men than for valour on the field. Jalloud was known for being a compassionate guerilla leader to his men but very ruthless against the enemy.

He was so determined in his pursuit of the end of Communist rule for Afghanistan that he never operated outside Afghanistan. He was a fighter who mastered the deadly mountain terrain of his country to the detriment of Soviet occupation forces. He was brave and purposeful but he was careless in his personal security – simply because he loved publicity.
So, headline seeking journalists from Europe and America got good copies from their interviews with him. This love for publicity was to later cost him his life. A group of Afghan rivals who feared that his ascendancy could make him become the most acceptable president at the end of Soviet occupation forces, later organized his assassination. How? They assembled a small team of suicide bombers who posed as a group of television journalists seeking an interview with the fabled commander. The camera they took and the microphones were all dummies – filled with explosives which they triggered off during the “interview,” killing the commander and themselves in the process.
Such was the precarious security situation among the rebel groups fighting the Soviet Communist regime that the guerilla leaders themselves never took chances with their strategies and movements because the life they may lose could be their own.
It was in the light of this reality that keeping an appointment with Osama bin Laden had serious security implications for the man. For Peshawa was crawling with spies and roving assassins of the pro-Soviet government in Kabul.
Our guides came early to pick us up as usual in our hotel. As it was the case in that type of top security appointments, the visitors from Lagos were first driven in a merry-go-round veered off into a blind alley, narrow road, untarred but which leads to an imposing compound. Remember, as I said, meeting Osama at that point in time (1988) was neither “known” nor-“celebrated”.

But we could assume his importance based on the celebrated security precaution taken to protect our itinerary.
As we drove through the massive walls of the compound housing Osama, we were heralded into the courtyard where a group of “mullahs” with flowing garments were already gathered. Being the only blacks, we stood out as they say, like a thumb! Inside the spartanly furnished apartment, it was obvious that Osama was not a man given to luxury. The carpet, a simple Persian rug was almost thread bare.
As we exchanged pleasantries with the “mullahs” we knew Osama was nowhere to be found. So the waiting game began. After about twenty-five minutes, there was a sudden screeching of tyres outside and immediately an army green armour plated jeep zoomed into the compound, accompanied naturally by the frenzied activities of a VIP alighting from his car. Behold! The object of our curiosity stepped out, smiling to his guests.
Without doubt, Osama was a very charming young man in 1988 and very charismatic. Exceptionally handsome, light skinned, well kept, an imposing physique with a long black (they are now white) luxuriant beard. Osama bin Laden did not cut an image of a steely guerilla leader deploying thousands of young Mujahiddeen (Jihadists) to the Afghan frontline to contend with the lethal sophistication of Soviet armour most of whom never returned. A couple of guests streamed  out to greet him. We stood at a distance and he discreetly acknowledged our presence with a glance and what looked like a smile, in fact more of a grin. He then sat directly on the lawn of the courtyard with a handful of hangers on and guests dotting on him. After a while, our Afghan team leader went to him, apparently to intimate him of our presence in a bow, brief consultation in a whisper and then our leader came back saying we are welcome to enjoy ourselves in the compound but “no interview”. Thereafter, he rose and was accompanied to the sitting room of his apartment. We mixed briefly with our guests partaking in the slices of watermelon being offered to guests. After a time, Osama disappeared into the inner room. Soon after, we entered our ten-seater bus and took our leave. That was it! Osama will not grant an interview and this was the style he had been maintaining in his guerilla years. Though not given to press interviews, Osama was adept at media management. He issued his communiqué and posted it out. In subterranean manner, of course, on the internet and other major media network. It is guaranteed world wide acclaim. And with the benefit of hindsight, who would blame Osama for never entertaining press interviews given the fatal mistake of Commander Jalloud. Who knows? Some determined suicide killer could well be lurking in the shadows and masquerade as journalists from the Aljazeera networks, but with lethal explosives as the tools of their trade! Who knows!

…A PEEP FROM MY HOTEL ROOM
When we landed in Peshawa, we were first lodged in what we considered to be some mushroom hotel. In protest, we decided to explore the town and we discovered what we considered to be an excellent alternative and which was centrally located. Green Hotels, so much more expensive of course, we quickly moved into the hotel only to discover that the organizers were only being considerate in their choice of hotel for us since we were going to pay the bills from our own pocket! That is from our “Per Diem” a little over 3,500 Pakistani rupees. Almost all of us being first time beneficiaries of an American government travel facility were not aware that we would pay all our personal expenses from this per diem with no other to be paid again for the entire trip. In their errors, most of my colleagues started blowing away their allowance, ordering room service and engaging in pleasure ride. Tangia – horse driven carriage across the town. I did not do any of this and I indeed put “a knife to my throat” (appetite) in the restaurant except during lunch, usually buffet. A round of buffet cost 50 rupees and you can bet that as a true “Niger” I made sure I ate more than my money’s worth of that charge. In fact, ametie Usen was such a “brat” that he once complained that I don’t have to make skyscrapers out of my portion in the plate since I could go back as many times as I like to take more. Who cares?

And another spectacular thing. The balcony of my hotel room was in ruins full of debris. I was told that this was as a result of an earlier bombing raid conducted by Soviet jet bombers over Peshawa. You can also imagine my anxiety in the hotel as I notice throughout our stay that a particular middle aged Afghan/Pakistani woman was always on the corridor of the restaurant knitting and keeping watch over our movement. Peshawa is not a place to ask stupid questions. A war zone is never a place to be too inquisitive. The less you know the better, unless you are a fighter or a spy, I was neither. So, I kept my peace, hoped for the best before hurriedly scampering out at the expiration of our assignment. What a relief!
Yusuf is a former Foreign Affairs Editor of Thisday Newspaper