DIY: Auto Painting

Before Painting The most important part of paint your car is getting the surface just right. If there are dents, dings or bumps in the metal, it will show through after the clearcoat has dried. Start by sanding the car with a dual-action sander and 80-grit sandpaper. This smooths the surface and removes layers of […]

Before Painting

The most important part of paint your car is getting the surface just right. If there are dents, dings or bumps in the metal, it will show through after the clearcoat has dried. Start by sanding the car with a dual-action sander and 80-grit sandpaper. This smooths the surface and removes layers of old paint and primer.

Clean the sanding dust off of the car and wipe the car down with a wax and grease remover. Place masking tape over any parts that can’t be painted, such as the lights, grille, chrome trim, windows, tires and door handles. Spray a thin coat of primer on the car and allow it to dry. Using a long sanding block and 120-grit sandpaper, lightly sand the entire car by hand. The sanding block remains flat on the surface and sands off the dark top layer of primer to reveal a lighter color. You will notice any dents or high spots because they will be a different color than the sanded areas. Repair these areas with body filler, sand them with 80-grit sandpaper and spray a light coat of primer over them. Sand them with 120-grit paper and the block to make sure they are straight.

Once the body is straight, wipe it down with wax and grease remover again. Then go over the car with a tack rag to remove any particles that may be sticking to the car. When these particles are left on and get painted, they show up under the paint and are called trash.

Painting

After wiping the car with a tack rag, it’s time to spray the paint. The best place to spray the paint is inside a paint booth. You can often rent time in a paint booth at a paint and body shop after hours. If this isn’t an option, the best thing to do is paint inside an enclosed area, such as a garage, after covering everything in the room with new tarps or plastic. This not only keeps the area clean, but it keeps dust from settling on the new paint. Make sure to open any windows or doors to keep the place ventilated. Place a large box fan (or two) in a window or doorway, facing outward. This helps pull the fumes and overspray out of the area. Also, never spray paint without wearing a respirator mask.

Start at the roof then move to the hood and trunk before painting the sides of the car. Use back and forth motions, keeping strokes light, thin and moving in a horizontal direction. Slightly overlap each stroke. Allow each coat 30 minutes to dry before applying the next coat. Three to four coats should be enough.

Once the paint has dried, spray three to four coats of clearcoat, waiting 30 minutes between each coat. Thirty minutes after spraying the last coat of clearcoat, remove the masking tape and allow the car to dry for 24 hours before moving.

After the Paint

After the car has dried completely, park it in adequate light so you can inspect the paint. If you find runs or trash in the paint, you can remove it with more sanding. If there are lots of runs and trash, it may be best to sand the entire car. Some people choose to sand the entire car even if there are no runs. The end result will be a brighter paint finish.

Sand the car with 800-grit sandpaper, keeping the sandpaper soaking wet. This prevents buildup under the paper. Sand until the car looks dull. Allow it to dry completely. Use a dual-action orbital polisher and a fine grade of liquid rubbing compound. Apply the liquid to the pad on the polisher and polish the car, working in small areas and moving in circular and back and forth motions. Once the rubbing compound has been used, use a finishing car polish in the same manner over the entire car. This makes the paint sparkle.

Culled from DIY Auto Painting |eHow.com http://www.ehow.com