Feasting on Ethiopian coffee

Before its discovery, there was the belief and myth that coffee was a source of illness but, Ethiopian folklore has it that, more than a thousand years ago, an Ethiopian goat herder named Kaldi discovered coffee. After finding his goats acting strangely, over-excited and appearing to be dancing on their hind legs, the herder investigated […]

Before its discovery, there was the belief and myth that coffee was a source of illness but, Ethiopian folklore has it that, more than a thousand years ago, an Ethiopian goat herder named Kaldi discovered coffee. After finding his goats acting strangely, over-excited and appearing to be dancing on their hind legs, the herder investigated and found out that they had been eating red cherries from bushes growing nearby. Kaldi gathered the berries and brought them home to his wife, who told him that he must take the beans to the monastery to show the local monks.

Once Kaldi reached the monastery, the monks declared the berries to be the work of the devil and set them on fire in a great flame. Sure enough, the aroma filled the monastery and the monks returned to salvage the delicious smelling beans. They crushed the beans, gathered them up, and placed them in boiling water. And, voila…coffee! Ever since then, the brew has been an integral part of Ethiopian culture and society.

A good day for many locals begins with a steaming cup of coffee taken in a group as a family and many times with neighbours and friends. It is not something taken just for the fun of it but is also a significant drink of honour offered to guests and at events.

According to tradition, it is the responsibility of the younger woman in the household to perform the ritual of preparing the coffee which could be as often as three times daily with each ceremony lasting up to two to three hours. She is also obliged to perform the ceremony when welcoming guests into her home and when there are ceremonies like marriages, child birth and other related events.

For indigenes, it is not out of place to say that coffee ceremony is the most important social occasion in many villages. As a guest, one should consider it an honour and a sign of respect when invited to be a part of a coffee ceremony. Such ceremonies provide avenues for serious and less serious ones. Disputes are settled over hot cups of coffee, marriages are arranged, political issues are tabled and grievances are trashed and resolved, among other issues.

While these are going on, there are continuous praises and words of encouragement for the brewer even though she is usually almost blinded by smoke and heat emanating from her charcoal pot atop where the coffee pot locally called jebena is gently placed to brew over coal fire.

Whether the ceremony takes place in a village or in the heart of the capital city Addis Abba, the routine for performing the ceremony is one and the same. Although there may be slight variations in certain circumstances to suit the guests or requests.

Before the ceremony begins, the room in which it is to take place is usually prepared beforehand. The performer, as the young woman is called, lines the floor with aromatic grass and/or flowers around the cooking area and then burns incense which is believed to wade off evil spirit. The incense is left burning through the period the ceremony would last.

She then proceeds to fill her black earthenware (jebena) with water which she places over the coal pot she had previously lit up.

In a long heated pan which is usually thick layered, she places a handful of green coffee beans to clean them. She holds this for a while over a small controlled fire. She constantly stares and in the process blows off the husks and other debris until what is left is clean beans.

The performer slowly begins to roast them in the same manner as pop corn and ensures that the heat is evenly spread and all the beans get to be properly roasted. The gauge is usually when they turn a golden brown or a slightly darker shade. Some people prefer the burnt and black taste of coffee. In such a case, the beans are left over the heat to roast more. This also releases oils which Ethiopians have found to be essentials. The aroma which emanates from the roasting adds to the beauty of the ceremony. In the course of roasting, butter or honey may be added to the beans as well as spices if so desired. The beans are then coarsely grinded in a mukecha, a small wooden mortar using a zenezena, the pestle similar to what we use in Nigeria.

Removing the straw lid of the jebena, she gently pours the coarse powder in and brings the mixture to the boil and the pot placed on a tray ready for service.

Ironically, unlike with most other traditions serving coffee in mugs with handles, the Ethiopians serve theirs in handless coffee or rubber cups. Filling each cup in the same proportion, the hostess ensures that she doesn’t break the stream of coffee as the shrugs don’t mistakenly find their way into the cups. It is a technique which ensures guests drink clean clear black coffee.

Each cup of coffee according to the Ethiopians, transforms the spirit, as the last and third serving is considered a blessing on those who drink it.

Some families give the children particularly the youngest one, the honour of serving the oldest guest the first cup after which the hostess serves everybody else.

Coffee is strong and hardly served with sugar; but sometimes with salt. Rarer still is serving it with milk. When all is set, there are gentle nods of bunna tetu which is an invitation to begin drinking the coffee. In all of this, it is an ‘offense’ to not compliment the performer for her efforts and skill at preparing such delicious coffee.

Traditionally, abol, the first round of serving is followed by tona and baraka, two other servings with each one being weaker with addition of water, than the previous.

Just as precise as the process of brewing is, it is impossible to miss the precision in which the items are set for service. The ethnical wares made from colourful raffia strands for table and trays serve multiple purposes. The animal skins which adorn the environment all add to the drinking pleasure of coffee in Ethiopia.