Hajj Diaries (I)- The Journey of a Lifetime
“And proclaim the Pilgrimage among men: they will come to thee on foot and (mounted) on every kind of camel, lean on account of journeys through deep and distant mountain highways; That they may witness the benefits (provided) for them, and celebrate the name of Allah, through the Days appointed, over the cattle which He […]
A picture taken on July 29, 2020 shows pilgrims circumambulating around the Kaaba, Islam’s holiest shrine, at the centre of the Grand Mosque in the holy city of Mecca, ahead of the annual Muslim Hajj pilgrimage. – Mask-clad Muslim pilgrims began the annual hajj, dramatically downsized this year as the Saudi hosts strive to prevent a coronavirus outbreak during the five-day pilgrimage. The hajj, one of the five pillars of Islam and a must for able-bodied Muslims at least once in their lifetime, is usually one of the world’s largest religious gatherings. (Photo by STR / AFP)
“And proclaim the Pilgrimage among men: they will come to thee on foot and (mounted) on every kind of camel, lean on account of journeys through deep and distant mountain highways; That they may witness the benefits (provided) for them, and celebrate the name of Allah, through the Days appointed, over the cattle which He has provided for them (for sacrifice): then eat ye thereof and feed the distressed ones in want. Then let them end their untidiness and fulfil their vows and perform Tawaf around the ancient House.”- Suratul Hajj: 27-29
“The months of Hajj are well known. Whoever intends to perform Pilgrimage in these months shall abstain from sensual indulgence, wicked conduct and quarrelling; and whatever good you do, Allah knows it. Take your provisions for the Pilgrimage; but, in truth, the best provision is piety.”- Suratul Baqarah:197
There is excitement, no doubt about that. No matter how many times one travels to Saudi for Hajj, there is a certain trepidation, eagerness and foreboding even. We have heard and witnessed so much death in the past years from stampedes and accidents during the hajj season that our stomachs cannot help but be filled with butterflies. Will this be my last journey? Will my Ibadah be accepted? Will I be among those whose Janazah is done after every obligatory prayer? Only Allah SWT knows.
The second verse I quoted talks about the best virtue when travelling- Piety. Translators unanimously agree that Piety here, means patience. Most books and sermons about pilgrimage discuss the importance of patience. Lots and lots and lots of it. Infact, you cannot have too much of it. This, I can guarantee.
I imagine my patience like money stored in the bank. The first cash withdrawal at the ATM started since from Nigeria. As a part of the National Medical Team (NMT), we were to be transported to Saudi through our various state airports via local charted airlines. This meant that we had no specific date of departure. Whenever, there was space in the aircraft conveying pilgrims, some of us were selected to travel. You can imagine the anxiety. I packed my bags one week to departure, weaved my hair, sewed my Ihram and said my goodbyes. Under duress, I completed my hajj reading and settled my debts. Still, I was not called. The kids started to question me- Mummy are you really travelling to Macca? Is tomorrow not the first of Dhul Hijja? Patience, Fatima, patience.
When we were finally called and told to report to the Hajj camp clinic, I heaved a sigh of relief! Alhamdulillah, I said to myself, we are finally going. I went to the camp in the morning and submitted my passport for collection of our collective boarding passes. Members of the NMT were told that the plane would arrive at 2pm. I decided to return to town and come back in the afternoon. Around 1:30pm, I received a call that we were removed from the flight manifest and moved to the next available flight. I later learnt that some very powerful Ulama had decided that enough was enough! Apparently, their own patience had come to an end and after making phone calls to the powers that be in Abuja, their names replaced ours on the manifest. Some of the team started to protest and before long a squabble ensued. I removed my travel shoes and went down for lunch. Patience, I said to myself, as I made yet another withdrawal.
The next day, I decided to lounge at home and wait for information. No way was I going the distance to the airport, if my name was not on the manifest. As if on cue, the clouds burst into rain as soon as I was called to get my boarding pass around 5pm. My husband drove me to the airport in the heavy downpour and raced with my bag across the terminal. By the time I reached the rest of the team, I was soaking wet, my teeth chattering. We then settled down to wait for the plane that we were told was coming. At this point, we were told conflicting stories about where the plane was coming from. Some said Ilorin, some said Port Harcourt. We spread our praying mats outside, on the tiled floor at the airport terminal entrance, with the cold breeze (the rain had stopped) biting our flesh and hunger churning our bellies like refugees in an IDP camp. Nobody had any idea when the flight was coming. The whole scenario was pitiful. I wanted to scream in anger, but was reminded of the pilgrims packed like sardines at the hajj camps. Most had come from far away villages and spent days at the camp, waiting in vain to be conveyed to Saudi Arabia. Some where even duped by people claiming to be travel agents only for them to come and be deserted at the hajj camp. I adjusted my bag and lay on the cold floor. Patience, Fatima, patience.
Some three hours later we were called for the usual screening: Immigration, port health and NDLEA. In addition to the usual yellow fever and COVID vaccination cards, they also required a form which cleared you against Monkey pox. The last screening check was the NDLEA who did not disappoint with their shameless begging. ‘Anything for the boys?’ ‘Hajia kiyi mana alheri’, ‘Dr, pls do something for us’. I pasted the perfunctory smile on my face and declined politely despite my anger. It would not do me good to start my Hajj journey fighting with airport officials. Another cash withdrawal from the patience ATM.
By the time we boarded, it was about 2:30am meaning I had spent about eight hours in the airport. I was so exhausted and hungry that I dropped my phone at the tarmac and realised it only after I had boarded and tried to communicate with family. Panicking, I rushed out of the aircraft while the cabin crew looked at me perplexed. Luckily for me, one of the airline officials had picked it up from the floor as it slipped out of my bag. I realised I must have dropped it when I put my things down to adjust my hijab. Alhamdulillah!
I want to think it was my patience being rewarded because out of all the NMT officials, only a few of us were selected by the captain and upgraded to First Class. Another Alhamdulillah!
As soon as I settled in, I promptly swallowed two tablets of Panadol Night. After the long wait, I intended to sleep peacefully throughout the flight so that I could arrive Jeddah pain free. It worked. So deep asleep was I that I missed the meal being served. Fortunately, the cabin crew kept mine for me and served it after I woke up after 6am. I wolfed down the dry rice and stew, prayed subh and made my intention for Umrah (As I would be doing Hajj tamattu’i) at the meqaat.
‘Labbayka Allahumma Umratan’
We landed Jeddah safely and headed immediately for Makkah. The journey begins!