One hour at Timbo in the Fouta Djallon

Guinea’s Foutah Djallon has a name which originates from the combination of two words, ‘futa’ and ‘jalonke’ meaning ‘settler of the futah jallon. The origin of the name is from the Fula word for the region plus the name of the original inhabitants, the Yalunka or Jalonke. Fouta Djallon is predominantly occupied by the Fulas […]

Guinea’s Foutah Djallon has a name which originates from the combination of two words, ‘futa’ and ‘jalonke’ meaning ‘settler of the futah jallon. The origin of the name is from the Fula word for the region plus the name of the original inhabitants, the Yalunka or Jalonke. Fouta Djallon is predominantly occupied by the Fulas who are commonly referred to as Fulanis in most of West Africa. 
Records state that the Imamate of Fouta Djallon was established between 1727 and 1751 under the leadership of Karamokho Alpha, who led the Fulani Jihad and was ruler of Timbo. This made Timbo the capital of the newly created Fouta Djallon state until the arrival of the French.
Until 1896, power was centrally situated in Timbo. The disestablishment was as a result of the several succession crises which weakened its power hold, when Bubakar Biro, an Almamy, was defeated by the French army in the battle of Poredaka.
Located in the Mamou Region, Timbo, centuries ago was reputable for being an important religious centre in Guinea and today is still reckoned with its eighteenth century mosque, its traditional architecture, breathtaking mountainous landscapes with waterfalls as well as its being a sanctuary for baboons and chimpanzees.
Today, one could conveniently drive pass Timbo community without realizing how much history and treasures this pastoral and farming town holds. There are some significant sites in the community. They include, the ‘great baobab tree’, the first stone house, a mosque built and prayed in by Usman Danfodio, a parcel of land belonging to him and the burial site of Karamokho  who first brought Islam to Guinea.
The name ‘Timbo’ originally is the name of the woman who gave two cows for sacrifice the day discussions held for the launch of Islam in the area in the 1500s.
A distinct difference coming from Guinea’s south and middle belt, the drive up the Foutah Djallon is cushioned by rich and dense green vegetation. Trees form cozy umbrella shades with a boulevard effect on the highways as cameras click all the way with first timers trying to savour the scenery for posterity sake.
This is contrasted a few kilometers after by clouds of dust as private and commercial vehicles snake their way up to Timbo.
With youths through community effort making repairs on the very bumpy, dusty roads, one is welcomed to Timbo community by a battered signboard stating ‘this is Timbo, youths are working’. Just ahead of this sign is a monstrous baobab tree which the tour guide Ahmadou Bah described as Timbo’s welcoming tree. He says it is a significant tree that has existed for centuries and has served as meeting point for all significant events that have taken place in the community.
Beneath the Baobab, all inhabitants of the Futah Djallon were received and prayed for when Islam came to them. It was also under this tree prayers were said on different occasions for Sir Ahmadu Bello and Sir Tafawa Balewa when they visited the region.
Home to Guinea’s first mosque, built in the 1700s, Timbo has managed to preserve some bits of the original mosque. At the moment, a new and bigger mosque is being built around it by the Nigerian Embassy in Guinea. Although the structure was started by his predecessor, Dr Aisha Laraba Abdullahi, Nigeria’s current envoy to Guinea Amb. Adamu Babangida Ibrahim has promised to do all he can to see the building is finished. 
The Sultan of Sokoto, Muhammadu Sa’ad Abubakar, is expected to commission the mosque when it’s completed later in the year. Guardian of the mosques, Alhaji Babember Sokotoro said aid was still being sought to ensure that it was finished in good time.
Standing strong and looking like the other huts in the vicinity, is the mosque which Usman Danfodio constructed by himself and in which he prayed. 
Now crowned with zinc sheets, plastered with cement and painted a bright yellow on the outside and sky blue on the inside, the mosque is kept clean and locked up.
Although Timbo receives a lot of visitors from around the world annually, the mosque is shown only to those whom the custodians consider worthy enough to be specifically taken there. 
The structure still is supported by two pieces of the original tree branches Danfodio constructed the roof with. Praying inside this mosque was a heartwarming experience which words fail to express.
Also, still standing erect is Timbo’s first stone house built in 1900. It was once served as residence for the village chief. But today it is a kitchen and store house for wives of Alhaji Babember and some of the local women.
The community has done its best to preserve the Karamakho Alpha’s graveside by tiling and gating it. With solemnity and reverence all visitors pay homage along with some members of the community, to a man still considered as Timbo’s benefactor.
For a lot of Guineans, with 40 per cent of its ten million population being fulas, the Fouta Djallon still is the link for them all regardless what their present locations are.