RAMADAN 1438: FASTING IN OTHER PLACES (IV)

In continuation of our series on ‘Fasting in Other Places’ (or ‘Ramadan Unusual’), today two other readers share their experiences of fasting outside Nigeria while on studies. Dr. Zaharaddeen Getso (friend of this Column from the very beginning) of Chemistry Department of ABU Zaria was in Malaysia from 2013, while Brother Adamu Tilde (he of […]

In continuation of our series on ‘Fasting in Other Places’ (or ‘Ramadan Unusual’), today two other readers share their experiences of fasting outside Nigeria while on studies. Dr. Zaharaddeen Getso (friend of this Column from the very beginning) of Chemistry Department of ABU Zaria was in Malaysia from 2013, while Brother Adamu Tilde (he of the famous ‘Letter to Northern Intellectuals’) now a PhD candidate at UDUS Sokoto was in Hungary 2014 to 2016. 

ZAHARADDEEN GETSO ([email protected]): MALAYSIA – My first fasting experience outside my comfort zone was in Malaysia, a multi-ethnic Islamic country in South East Asia. There, Ramadan is such “a big deal”! In fact, in some Malaysian states the king may declare the first day of Ramadan (note: not Eid!) as public holiday in order to welcome the holy month. That’s how important a period it is.

Unlike Nigeria, Malaysians always depend on a calendar – that is, at the beginning of every year the people already know when they will start and finish their Ramadan fasting. So in Malaysia, the Holy Month can be felt approaching weeks before it is formally announced by authorities. 

Ramdan is a month of merriment in Malaysia. Everyone is ‘spoiled’ by the numerous exotic foods at Bazaar Ramadan and Buffet Ramadan. When it comes to food, there is so much variety in the Malay cuisine. When invited for Iftar, what we usually see on Malay dining tables are dates, various exotic fruits and other traditional snacks such as Pulut Udang, Cara Berlauk, Buah Melak, or Kuih Bakar, served both as starters and desserts. 

For the main course there is always white rice served with dishes such as Asam Pedas, Ayam Perchik, Rendang, or Masak Lemak Cili Api and Ulam (a local type of salad eaten with a special chili paste call ‘sambal’), or a vegetable mix, stirred or made into soup, on the side. As for dessert, the mouth-watering traditional sweets will be Somsom, Cendol, or Bubur Pulut Hitam and many more. Not forgetting the special local drinks like Air Tebu or Sirap Bandung Selasih. 

Don’t worry about the strange Malay food names, but I guarantee you they are absolutely delicious although, as I must quickly add, not as delicious as our kunu and kosai! 

Activities around all the Malaysian Masjids increase tremendously. Tarawih, Tahajjud and Tazkirah (akin to our Taálim) are organized in almost every masjid, apart from Bubur Lambuk Iftar which every mosque hosts. Bubur Lambuk is a special porridge cooked with coconut milk, meats, condiments and spices. It’s a heavy meal for Iftar, good enough to feed the needy, and even the not-so-needy. Every masjid around the country offers this Iftar. 

Another interesting event I loved in Malaysia during Ramadan was Bazaar Ramadan. This is where everyone will come to buy exotic foods like Nasi Kerabu, Pulut Panggang and special drinks that are not usually found on normal days. I can assure you no one can finish tasting all the foods and drinks that are offered at the Bazaar, thanks to the diversity of culture in Malaysia. 

Another interesting function of the Masjids during Ramadan is fund raising to support the needy as well as support the Masjid’s activities. Most masjids around Malaysia will receive enormous donations to support all their activities, and to help prepare communal Iftars for the whole month.

Eid is beautiful in Malaysia. The adornment for Eid is mesmerising. Massive amounts of decorations can be seen on the main streets and buildings of almost every city, as well as the shopping malls. This is the beauty about Ramadan in Malaysia. And the period offers the visitor lots of education about the host community’s culture and religion.

A special gratitude goes to my good friend Dr. Hazwan Hussain who would come every night after Iftar to take us out to Tarawih. Because of him, I prayed Tarawih in almost every Masjid in Pulau Pinang (Penang Island). 

Ma sha Allah! 

ADAMU TILDE ([email protected]): HUNGARY – “Allah Daya Gari Banbam!” I could not think of a better phrase that aptly captured my Ramadan experience in Central Europe than the above adage. It was, indeed, Ramadan Unusual, like never was. It was just “too dry” as we say in a popular Nigerian parlance. 

Ramadan, as I am used to, symbolises a period of mystical experience, jollification and merrymaking. It is much more than a mere abstaining from eating and drinking from sunrise to sunset. People welcomed Ramadan with both arms open. A week to Ramadan means intense preparation, stocking and distribution of foodstuffs, exchange of gifts and sending of goodwill to loved ones. That was my sole and only definition of Ramadan period; well, until I found myself in Central Europe. 

“We should expect to start fasting either on this or that day” the Imam announced after Jumu’a prayer. It was then I was reminded of the forthcoming Ramadan. It couldn’t have been duller, blander and staler! 

Nothing signifies Ramadan’s anticipated presence other than this one-line announcement. I was like, this Imam must be kidding! Ramadan and no fanfare! I mean, where is the aura and tranquility that often usher and herald the coming of Ramadan? Where is that feelings of getting into a special period – a period of introspection, contemplation, reflection and purification of soul – feelings of closeness to one’s Benefactor (exalted be His Name)? This must be another world!  

A depressing feeling began to creep in, gradually. I felt alienated and out of place.

After accepting the sad reality of my existence, I couldn’t think of buying anything; besides, what is even there to buy other than multiple forms of wheat-flour – Gyros, Kebab, Pizza, Burger, Cake etc. 

Another startling and unsettling reality of my existence was that we were in Summer time. And Summer means praying Isha’ at 11:00pm and Subh at 2:30am. In other words, I had only 3-4 hours between Suhoor and Iftar. The longest one would fast in the tropics is 14 hours. Here, I had to fast for 20-21 hours! 

It then dawned on me that if I made the mistake of sleeping between Iftar and Suhoor my name would be changed to “Marigayi!” When I told my mum the number of hours I would be fasting, she joked that, given the nature of my frail body, by the time Ramadan ran out I would be as lean as the numerical number 1!  

The thought of what to break the fast with during Iftar was more dispiriting and morale-killing than the number of hours to be observed fasting. My brain couldn’t accept Pizza for Iftar. Impossible! A ‘Buda-Baki’ without ‘Kunu’ and ‘Kosai’! And worse, for a Fulani man for that matter?! Borrowing from the Pentecostals’ hush tone, I exclaimed, The Devil is a Liar! 

As the days passed, I got used to the strangest Ramadan of my life. I was relieved for the presence of good internet connection to listen and watch Tafseer as they occur in Nigeria. 

One of the funniest things that I would live to remember was that when we reached the last ten days of the month. A brother from Sudan asked me as the Imam whether we could observe Tahajjud. I looked at the remaining Maamu to read their reactions. They were all incredulously dumb-founded. I told him, well, as you can see, we are just finishing the Taraweeh and it is already 12am. And we are expected to stop Suhoor by 2am. So I jokingly teased him whether he thinks it is wise to observe Tahajjud and let go of Suhoor? I then reminded him that both Taraweeh and Tahajjud mean the same thing – they are all referred to as Qiyamul Lail! 

It was an experience!