Taste of Keffi market where Fulani identity rules

Located along Abuja-Keffi Expressway, a unique market thrives, bringing together many people from the North and South to Nasarawa State to do business. It’s known as the Keffi International Cattle Market and while most customers visit in search of cattle to buy, the majority of Fulani clientele sell and buy items peculiar to their culture. […]

Located along Abuja-Keffi Expressway, a unique market thrives, bringing together many people from the North and South to Nasarawa State to do business. It’s known as the Keffi International Cattle Market and while most customers visit in search of cattle to buy, the majority of Fulani clientele sell and buy items peculiar to their culture. Weekly Trust visited the market as early as 10:00am, discovering that activities were just picking up, with few sellers, mostly non-Fulani.
As the sun rises, it steps up the tempo in every section of the market. By 2:30pm, everywhere was filled with Fulani, cattle and colourful items designed to catch their eye. But why do they choose to come to the market late? Mohammed Madugu, one of the market officials, answered: “The Fulani have a peculiar tradition when it comes to selling their animals. Even if he sells his cow in the morning at home, he will not collect money till its afternoon or evening. It is believed that doing so will make one poor. That is the reason why many don’t come to the market in the morning but afternoon or evening.”
This reporter left Madugu to see other goods sold at the market. At a section where special Fulani-designed hats and sticks are sold, young and middle-aged men were busy selecting items that suit their taste.
Wondering what informs their choices, Weekly Trust asked a buyer, Abdullahi Mohammadu, about that. “You have to choose items that will last long, not too heavy to carry around,” he said, referring to fashion and utility accessories he was purchasing. Referring to a walking stick/staff, he said: “I will not feel comfortable without a stick around me. I need it to also control cattle when we take them out for grazing.” He added that the animals usually are more obedient when a handler is wielding a stick.
Adjacent to the stick/staff-sellers, were neatly displayed machetes, shining, each with a holder made from leather. They are also available in vibrant, attractive colours. Two middle-aged men were busy sharpening the machetes for buyers, for a fee. Many of the implements lay beside them, to be sharpened for waiting owners. “If properly sharpened, it could be as sharp as a razor,” a client pointed out.
Ahmadu Ja’e came to the market from neighbouring Kaduna State to buy a machete. “No Fulani man will carry his cattle around for grazing without a stick or machete,” he said. “We use machetes to clear paths, cut down leaves for the herds during the dry season when the grasses are scarce and others. But we also use it for defence when we are under attack from wild animals.”
At the other side, brightly coloured rubber shoes were on display, catching the attention of many a buyer. According to one of them, rubber shoes are more flexible and durable considering their movement when grazing. “Water cannot damage it and it is easy to manage, even to run around,” one buyer told Weekly Trust. “It is also cheaper and easily to mend. You cannot buy leather shoes to walk in the bush, as they cannot withstand heavy-duty usage,” he noted.
At the market, apart from creature comforts the Fulani can’t do without, there are other special items that compete for their attention: clothes. Various types of garments abound, and interestingly, even non-Fulani buyers seek out the colourful designs. Camera shy young women, apparently not Fulani, giggled and avoided being interviewed, even as they picked some items.
Not only would a visitor see Fulani culture, one would also taste it, sweet and rich, as a visit to Keffi International Cattle Market is not complete, apparently, without a taste of Fura da Nono or Dambu da Nono, offered a la carte by neatly dressed, cheerful milkmaids. “I come for the shopping,” said a client, adding: “And for the Fura da Nono, too.”