The 600 year old palace of the Ojomo Luda of Ijebu Owo

The old palace of the Ojomo Luda is almost like a living thing, expanding in both directions as you stand before it. When viewed from the side, its  architectural form also fascinates the visitor. Its roof seems to gently touch the earth, but it does not. It never achieves a connection with the earth, only […]

The old palace of the Ojomo Luda is almost like a living thing, expanding in both directions as you stand before it. When viewed from the side, its  architectural form also fascinates the visitor. Its roof seems to gently touch the earth, but it does not. It never achieves a connection with the earth, only seeming to aspire in that direction. There is an elegance in the many  gently sloping roofs, and the pillars and quiet corridors, the elderly cooks, doorways  and silent drums and arches, which collectively help to define the palace in which Kings reigned a long while ago. 

My  guide says that the unique architecture of the roof was part of the security of the entire structure in the olden days when the palace was in use, for a visitor or enemy would be easily seen, but he may not quickly see who is within. There is beauty, relevance and sense in old things, if you would just look around you carefully. Kola Ojomo, PA to the Oba is my guide. He says that the palace is 600 years old. It is a long edifice when viewed from the front, and is made up of many squares which have designated functions. He adds, for instance, that there is a square where the Ajo festival normally holds, and there is another where persons who have been invited to the palace, go forward to do obeisance to the Oba. There is another which is reserved for princes or Oloris (wives of the Oba), and if one is not a princess or an Olori, you cannot reside there. There is another square which is  reserved for the Ojomo Luda, at the time when he is newly installed. Also, there is another which Ojomo says is the place where all the drums are stored. There are countless squares and rooms in the palace, all serving different, highly significant functions. 

Ojomo tells me that the present Ojomo Luda, Oba Kofoworola Oladoyinbo, has made efforts to retain the original character of the palace, by regularly improving conditions around it. This is why it still remains a very attractive edifice. His words “Every year during an occasion or festivity  in Ijebu kingdom, the Oba will invite all the wives and the relatives, and the men will go and bring clay sand. We will then use it as a form of paint on the ancient walls. Instead of us to paint it, we use clay. This is the process through which the Oba preserves the ancient palace on a yearly basis.” 

The Ojomo Luda of Ijebu Owo also has a significant role to play during the annual Igogo  festival, for tradition holds that he is a brother to the Olowo. He will have his hair plaited, wear a gown of coral beads and dance round the town, up to the palace of the Olowo of Owo, who will the next day, also wear similar attire and dance up to the palace of the Ojomo. In addition to many things, the palace is also the setting for festivals, and a big one comes up in November.