The Lure of Islands (2): Aloha Hawaii!

On a trip to America not long ago, I met a man who lived in Hawaii and what he said about the Islands, in addition to my readings, pushed me to go find out. Bob was a tall and lean long distance runner, who seemed determined to live a long and enjoyable life. Though a […]

On a trip to America not long ago, I met a man who lived in Hawaii and what he said about the Islands, in addition to my readings, pushed me to go find out. Bob was a tall and lean long distance runner, who seemed determined to live a long and enjoyable life. Though a businessman, he preferred  the more easy-going life-style of Hawaii, to the hustle and bustle of Mainland USA.
Of all the things Bob said about the beautiful islands he had made his home, what stuck to my mind was his claim, that as soon as the aircraft door opened in Honolulu, the soft air filled your nose with the smell of tropical flowers. I love the fragrance of oranges in bloom, jasmine flowers and the queen of the night. I looked forward to being welcomed by the smell of exotic flowers that are new to me.
It was a long and bumpy flight; we started from Boston early in the morning and arrived in Honolulu at the beginning of twilight. Still, my long nose was up in the air and as Bob said, sure enough it was soon filled with the sweet smell of flowers. If this was somewhat mixed with the disagreeable sniff of jet oil in the airport, the fragrance completely enveloped me when I arrived at my sea-side hotel in Maui.
As is traditional in Hawaii, I was welcomed with the Aloha (or welcome) ceremony, by the staff of the hotel dressed in traditional outfits. There was a cool drink, a brief burst of song accompanied by the beat of the ukulele (a kind of local guitar) and freshly cut flowers in a string was put around my neck. The hotel was set in a verdant garden and from my room I could see and hear the crash of waves in the ocean.
After a fitful sleep, I was still tired from the twelve hours flight of the previous day. But what’s the point of staying in bed when you are in paradise? I rented a car and set out to see my surroundings. The road around the Island of Maui, one of the six major Islands that make up Hawaii, is built by the sea, alternately creeping along tall cliffs and then descending to the shore. There are tourist stops for a better view of this magnificent scenery, where high volcanic outcrops descend into the deep blue ocean.
Stopping at a farm stall to buy some strange looking but tasty fruit, I lingered to talk to some locals. If they were surprised an African has pitched up in their midst they did not show it. The islanders spoke some English, but they are quiet and gentle people who did their best to accommodate the horde of tourists. I drove around all day, often losing my way. But on an Island all roads come back to the same starting point. After the first day I pretty much knew my way round and discovered interesting restaurants and quiet beaches.
One night I  was lucky to get a ticket to cultural show, where a troupe of singers and dancers treated the audience to a Hawaiian extravaganza. First there was a buffet made up of local cuisine, mostly different varieties of fish, taro (a sort of cassava), plantain, coconut etc. The dancing was slow and graceful, with the songs melodious and even mournful, reminding you that this was a sea-going culture where nature’s wrath can suddenly strike. Polynesian women are famous for their beauty, slim, with light cream complexion, their long hair usually adorned with flowers. No wonder many male visitors make the quick decision to go completely native!
Your correspondent obviously was not one of them. I was fascinated alright about the song and dance. Everything about Maui conspired to excite the senses. The mountains were carpeted by deep green vegetation that only volcanic soil can support. The blue sky above mirrors the blue-green sea below. The beaches were pristine white, with swaying palm trees providing cover from the sun.
I have seen other islands which nature has adorned gorgeously. But they tend to be poor and even underdeveloped. Last week I said as much about Cuba, a well-endowed  Caribbean Island, which had become the victim of super power rivalry. Hawaii may have been a rough diamond once, but it has since been polished by very industrious hands.It is enchanting and sophisticated, a marvel of nature and a comfortable creation of man.
No where was this more obvious than Honolulu, the capital, where I spent a few days before leaving the Islands. Unlike Maui and Kauai which were smaller and more unspoiled, Honolulu, on Oahu or the big Island, is a big gleaming metropolis. It has also become a centre of mass tourism with multi-story hotels soaring into its sky-line. Plane load of couples from as far way as Japan have made Honolulu a honeymoon favorite.
This being America the hotels were numerous and as luxurious as could be. Hawaii is promoted by tourist brochures as a romantic destination, so most hotels are geared to serving couples. But a lone traveller like me could still fit in, if slightly on the margin of things. I stayed at the Breakers Hotel, which was on a bluff overlooking the Waikiki beach. From my balcony I watched the honeymooners strolling hand in hand, the sun worshippers getting a tan and young and athletic surfers defying huge ocean waves.
Otherwise away from sea, Honolulu, with it’s skyscrapers, designer shops and bump to bump traffic, could easily pass for Manhattan (New York) on a quiet day. This is where the Hawaii state government and parliament are based. There is also a huge US Naval base and it is common to see white uniformed naval officers moving about town. Honolulu is also the main base of the agricultural, entertainment and hospitality companies that control life on the Islands.
The palace that used to belong to the old Hawaii royalty is visited by some. Otherwise to be honest life for most visitors to Honolulu revolves around the hotels, restaurants and shops that crowd around Waikiki beach. You can enjoy all the modern conveniences of life as you gaze over the watery horizon across the pacific ocean.