Tiv A’nger: Origin, commerce and fear of extinction

Although, its definite emergence could not be ascertained, history however shows that the traditional fabrics, which boldly distinguishes the majority ethnic tribe in Benue from another people dates back to more than a century ago. In fact, it is as old as the existence of the people themselves around the Benue-Plateau. Precisely, at a time […]

Although, its definite emergence could not be ascertained, history however shows that the traditional fabrics, which boldly distinguishes the majority ethnic tribe in Benue from another people dates back to more than a century ago.

In fact, it is as old as the existence of the people themselves around the Benue-Plateau. Precisely, at a time when the Kwande aborigines in present day Kwande local government are widely believed to be the ancestral home of the Tiv people engaged in cotton production and its trade blossomed in the Benue valley of the Nigerian nation. Those were the days when the early Dzurgbe clan of Kwande made successive mastery in the art of knitting the handloom outfit.

The tradition which is today preserved by all well-meaning sons and daughters of Tiv extraction including Governor Gabriel Suswam to make a fashion statement, has become very popular among members of the state executive councils and lawmakers from the area to the extent that it injects the essence of tradition easily identifiable with those who not only appear like their boss but seek the warmth of love usually expressed in the greetings of the Tiv dialect such as; msughulza van o!

Tracing the history of the attire, Gabriel Gpande, a designer and trader who has been in the business for the past 10 years said the tradition was famous among the tribe, especially within the Kwande area who celebrated the culture as the existing pattern of the peoples’ way of dressing long ago before the birth of his fore fathers.

“The black and white cultural attire is traced to our people’s way of dressing. The dress code existed before my great-great grandparents were born and as you can see, it has come to stay in the kingdom of the Tiv nationality”.

The advent of the adorable pattern among the Tiv was generally believed to have been first adopted by the Kwande extraction before its further spread across the Tiv land and among other tribes alien to the culture but love to be identified with the Tiv origin.

Since then, the native attire has become part of the peoples’ costume from the two senatorial districts which formed the Tiv nation in Benue State even as it varied in sizes and shapes due to some level of modification over the years.

In recent times, some people have nick named the easily identifiable piece of headwear and wrapper as; ‘Benue united’, ‘Holy family’ or ‘Mura-utib’ to define the social class of people who wear it.

The attire, according to a prominent dealer, James Adu, became more famous as efforts to revive culture by most tribes in Nigeria started to thrive in recent times, especially as the need to get back to the root during festivity such as the traditional mood and Christmas season demands.

Today, it is thought to have become a notable part of the culture of dressing at birthdays, burial ceremonies, chieftaincy coronations, marriages, swange dance among others, so that its popularity is indicative of the wearers status.

It is usually a beauty to behold when the men traditionally dressed in flowing wrappers neatly tied across their shoulders under a pair of trouser with a cap adjusted to fit; a spear in one hand and a horse tail in the other to complement the women who simply clad themselves with the wrapper, blouse and headgear to match.

Everyone is entitled to wear or display the rich heritage at home or abroad. Oftentimes, it is worn by the Tiv elders or chiefs during their traditional council engagements usually held in Gboko, the headquarters of the Tiv nation and permanent abode of the Tor Tiv the paramount ruler of the people.

Entering Makurdi from the Abuja-Lafia axis, it is not uncommon to see the wares displayed around the North bank metropolis in their diversity as the traders flaunt the items in various styles to attract passer-by.

At the delectable Nico traditional attire stands, buyers troop  in and out to either pay for certain piece at once or place an order for a particular quantity depending on the occasion and number of guests expected.

According to Gpande who manages Nico stands, the Christmas period is the peak season for their sales because major activities are carried out within the period through the New Year.

“And, it may interest you to know that vehicular movement is heavier within this route during this period, so we make brisk business because we get more patronage from those on transit who admire the fabrics”, he stated.

Gpande also explained that there are 12 types of the textiles and that it all varied in prices depending on their patterns and texture, noting however, that the Mura-utib costume is held in high esteem because it defines the peculiarity of the people.

However, popular opinions hold that the A’nger, is more respected and highly valued, especially as it is the one usually used to decorate an alien in honour of the Tiv traditional title among the others such as; Ivetyoo, Mura-utib, Shudeen, Holy family, Gurugu, Chado, Deremen, Gbagir, Lishi and Tugudu.

To preserve the culture from extinction, Adu, a designer suggested to the state government to create a village for the sole promotion of the traditional attire, a place where the locally source materials would be cultivated, harvested, spin, threaded and sewn into lovely piece for a finished product.

On the other hand, his counterpart, Tyokohol Thaddeus opined that legislation would help the preservation of the  A’nger, which is most popular among natives and non-indigenes as a traditional dress that could be worn during official hours by top government functionaries instead of the western dressing adopted on week days.

To underscore his seriousness, he added that the law should make it mandatory for lawmakers to wear the design in place of their tie if they must be on suit just as the wrappers that flows to the ground can be used with trouser atop a fitted cap as well as accessory beads of diverse black and white corals to match.

For most people in the area, you take away the A’nger, you murder their prestige. The costume is meant to make a fashion statement, surprisingly; it means more than a culture to the Tivs’ as it remains an object of historical value with so much pride attached to it.

A fact to which, Terkula Moses attested as part of his cherished dressing. “The wearing of the stripped black and white is our custom. It is not comfortable for me to do without it because it is my pride”, he noted.

His views was corroborated by Nwuese Job who added that personalities such as the senate minority leader, former governor, George Akume, governors, members of state cabinets, traditional rulers and politicians wear the attire more often to depict the rich cultural heritage of the agrarian people.

Gpande stressed that the piece differs in style just as it varies in prices but the Ivetyoo is used by most highly placed women to depict their social status.“Though the common man wears some type of the costume, in the actual sense, the Ivetyoo is believed to be an exclusive right of the womenfolk”, he added.

At the North bank area notable for sales of the product, designers are seen under the trees knitting the piece which is made from locally source-fabrics that can be obtained from other markets within the state.

The cheap ones goes for as much as between N2,000 and N2,500 while the quality ones are sold for between N4,000 and N6,000 for varied colours of black and white, depending on the taste of the buyer or the cloths intended to suit the wear.

The disparity in prices according to Gpande is due to the availability and cost of the thread used in making the fabrics, “and that is why the Mura-utib is costliest”.

As tradition demands, all of the Tiv celebration or festivity is not complete without its supreme traces of the most preferred A’nger in place which has become universally popular with the sophisticated fashion accessory as a proof that their own part of the world is truly unique to integrate the culture.