Wonders of Ethiopia’s rock churches

Upon sighting the signpost which reads: ‘Dear visitors welcome to Lalibela,’ tourists, in an almost impatient manner, disembarked from shuttle buses which had conveyed them from their hotels or the airport straight to Lalibela. Hardly waiting for ticketing and security checks to be finished, some like our reporter said they needed to use the rest […]

Upon sighting the signpost which reads: ‘Dear visitors welcome to Lalibela,’ tourists, in an almost impatient manner, disembarked from shuttle buses which had conveyed them from their hotels or the airport straight to Lalibela. Hardly waiting for ticketing and security checks to be finished, some like our reporter said they needed to use the rest room. This was in a bid to quickly get a glimpse of the Petra of Ethiopia. Subtle grumbling replaced this as all they could see was the gigantic roof UNESCO had built to protect the structure. More ‘disappointment’ followed when the visitors were told this was not the most famous of the churches, but a group of some of the earliest rock-hewn churches built by King Lalibela in the 11th century.
Immediately recognisable as an orthodox worship place, were clergy and lay people dressed in white cotton shrouds over other garments they wore, as the tour guide, Mr. Gaitana, received blessings from a priest while kissing the crucifix in his hands and saying ‘amen’ to some inaudible prayers from the priest.
Named after its founder, St. Lalibela a former king, the town is set at 2, 600 metres above sea level – one of the highest points in the world, in the Amhara region in the heart of Ethiopia. Regardless the thinness of the air which was immediately noticeable for those coming from destinations with far lower altitudes, strategies for more comfortable breathing had to be applied. There was no dissuading or quelling the anxiety of tourists who once they learned they would be visiting the rock-hewn churches could not talk about anything else but Petra, so named after Jordan’s historical and archeological city, Petra, of rock-hewn churches.
The houses scantily scattered apart from one another, the rocky roads upon which construction workers busied themselves to ensure they’re more usable, does not water down the magnificence of Lalibela with its fortress of mountain cascades around the ancient community, where, annually, thousands throng to fulfill their religious obligations as well as tick off their bucket list of touristic exploits to accomplish.
The community which is home to Ethiopia’s second holy site of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church after Axum, in the Tigray region owes its relevance to its monolithic churches which were each hewn from individual rocks.  
King Lalibela, with a mission to create a new Jerusalem after it had become difficult for Ethiopians to visit Jerusalem due to war, hewn 11 churches from the rocks. These churches still stand erect and are in use over 1000 years after their construction.
The largest of the churches are monolithic, with the rock around them excavated to leave them as freestanding structures in a uniquely Ethiopian construction style. The crude technology used in their construction, make them even more, architectural masterpieces as many wonder about the accuracy of their dimensions.
Engraved around the courtyard walls of the churches are tombs – now empty, and cells once occupied by monks who have left due to the influx of tourists and pilgrims.
Our reporter preferred the excitement of exploring the churches by a maze of underground tunnels, stone passages and staircases. It all was reminiscent of watching ‘Flinstones’ or what it  may have felt like leaving in the Stone Age.  
Treading carefully over a bridge carved out to connect the churches, tourists were led to the Bieta Medhane Alem (House of the Redeemer). It is the biggest of the churches and is protected from weather effects by a shelter built over it by UNESCO when it became a world heritage site.
Towering at 12 metres from its chunky foundations spread over an area of almost 800m², the church is supported by 72 columns, half inside and half outside. It is embellished with intricately designed patterns and symbols which have been replicated amongst traditions the world over.
These patterns are replicated in the Biete Maryam (House of Mary), Bieta Maskal, Biete Denagel (House of Virgins) as well as the other churches around.
A female standing by the door post who took it upon herself to guide us through the rocks, slippery from the rain, also diligently served as protector for our shoes left outside each church and also proxy guide.
Visitors were welcomed into the warmth of the cold stone walls with impulsive reverence of the edifice with visible Byzantine style architecture.
Murals of saints and archangels adorn the walls which pilgrims revere and pray for intercession from. The tour guide cautioned visitors against using their camera flashes while taking photos in order to preserve the art. Gaitana explained that in the three empty graves by the altar pilgrims lay inside them in prayer and to receive blessings.
An algae-filled fertility bath which self-cleans during the rains, sits on one end of the courtyard where the general belief is that during Ethiopian Christmas the pool has the power to cure women of infertility when they are submerged in it.
Walking away from there down the rocky paths as vendors beckoned to tourists to purchase their wares, Ikechi Uko, leader of the group called out, saying: “Vanessa, this is the reason you are here.” The real McCoy of them all is Bete Giyorgis (House of St George), the last of the rock churches built by King Labilela.
The view from a vantage angle of the cross-shaped church, causes the feet to stop in their tracks as tourists audibly swallow saliva before letting out subtle and chorused ‘wow, it’s so beautiful.’ Almost in a coordinated manner, cameras start clicking away as each person slowly climbs down the stair way not taking their eyes off the structure which teasingly unveiled itself with each step down. From the top of the rock, there is a design of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church cross.
Very much aware of the anxiety of tourists to behold its beauty, this Monalisa kept one in suspense, like a groom awaiting the unveiling of his new bride. It ensured the journey through the narrow stony-walled walkways leading to its majesty, extremely whet the appetite. Levelled on about two or so floors, it was already hosting a group of Egyptian Coptic Christians. They later had a quick service anchored by three bishops.
Preserved within the church’s premises in its ancient tombs are remains of monks who died several years ago. “Their bodies didn’t experience any decay but merely dried up,” Gaitana told the group Parches of flesh are still visible as they cling on to the bones as if for dear life.
He explained the practice in the church which is also a part of the lifestyle of the people.
While most people prefer to build stone houses which take at least two months to construct, others to cut cost, build with wood and finish it in two or three days.
Wooden staff as our reporter noticed locals carried in the town, were arranged at the entrance of the church. According to Gaitana, they symbolise the cross of Jesus Christ and are used for chants.  He said: “Each movement during chants has a symbolic imitation. When they move up and down, it is the symbol of the descent and ascension of Christ.
“The priests when they chant put the staff on their shoulders and move forward and backward. Jesus carried his cross up Mount Calvary. He fell down on the way. The movement of the priests reminds us of His pain.”
He added that: “The staff is one of the instruments of the chanters who are trained to chant in the monasteries,” as he showed off his ability to also chant.
Gaitana explained that the Pope who is head of the church is based in Addis, Ethiopia’s capital and works alongside monks, administrators, priests, deacons, nuns and other church workers.
He said: “The bishops and monks cannot marry but priests can, though only to one wife. Priests who marry a second wife lose their priesthood. There are two kinds of monks; those who from birth have preserved their virginity and those who lost their wives and then decided to become monks. After becoming a monk, you can’t give birth to children again.”
Nuns have some kind of role to play which involves preparing bread, fetching water and some other such activities of the male dominated worship process.
Although to a visitor witnessing the short service anchored by the Coptic bishops, it is the same as the orthodox worship because of the chants involved; Gaitana informed that there is a difference.
On the effect the presence of the churches have had on the town, Gaitana said: “It has affected us positively. Majority of the people living in the town earn their income from tourism. Outside the town, majority are farmers. But a large number of the people living in the town are also into agriculture. Basically, most people here are into agriculture and tourism. The church servants, guides, hotel owners, workers and souvenir shops are the direct beneficiaries.”
The simplicity of their Christianity was quite visible especially to a Nigerian. They have no private jets in the name of God’s work and no cars parked around the premises. They  came with sincerity of heart and mind which they said ‘only God could judge.’